MAINTENANCE
Brakes
Whatever type of bike and handlebar style etc you have - check the left lever operates the rear brake and the right hand lever operates the front brakes! As with cars – brake block wear and the cables stretch New ones squeal
a bit and as with cars they need to “bed” a bit. So take care and make sure you replaced the correct one for your type of wheel (once attended a serious nasty where the deceased had used a leather faced block on alloys and had positioned the blocks incorrectly as well. Your blocks should be set so that they operate with a small movement of the levers (your levers should never come near the handle bars even in an emergency! Your blocks should normally clear the wheel rims.
Check out the brake cables – especially the end nipples which are hidden within the brake levers as this is where your cables normally fray and brake. Every now and then grease it and greasing the cable wire inside the outer sleeves can also reduce friction. Remember - if you have to brake hard – inspect your cable for any damage immediately.
Gears
Very valuable to get the best out of a ride! These match your power output to the energy requirements of the bike which depends on gradient and acceleration A good range of gears is essential – but sadly a large number do not know how to use them – and a call to the CTC will tell you where you can have one hour’s tuition for a modest fee in your local area.
I have to recommend anyone usnsure of using gears does seek a course.
Correct adjustment of gears is important for road safety as gear changing in traffic has to be quick and precise. Please ensure you can engage all usable gears easily and reliably without the chain falling off With derailleur gears in particular there is usually an overlap of gears and this can lead to problems of chain rubbing for some.
Tramsission
Moving parts need cleaning and lubrication – rule is little and often – but do not lubricate brakes and gear levers. However, it is vital that the transmission system is well maintained - relubricate thechain each time it gets wet. Again lot of accidents are caused because the cyclist does not lubricate or inspect the chain for wear and tear .
Check the chain by pulling the chain away from the front of the largest chain wheel with your hand if it moves more than the heigh of a tooth – it needs replacing. You may also have to change the sprockets as well as new chains and old sprockets
Also look for play around the bottom bracket. Grasp each pedal in turn and try to rock it for side to side – If there is any significant movement - - there is a loose pedal, crank or bottom bracket. Spin the pedals and cranks backwards – if there is any opposition – overtight bearing
Headset
Check the tightness of the headset. Handlebars should turn without any friction – but not too loose that bearings jar. Hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. Movement should be restricted to that caused by the give of the tyres and you should not notice any movement between the front fork and the frame. A tight or loose headster leads to wobbles at speed and excessively wears the headset cups and bearings. We had one major incident last year through a poorly maintained headset – and the guy had severe head injuries as a result of the fall.
Tyres
As with cars – worn tyres puncture easily and do not grip the road. As with your car – please make sure you have the correct pressure. Over-inflated bike tyres can explode and under inflated tyres as with cars – makes steering heavy, difficult and potentially lethal
Buy a pressure gauge – you should find the maxium pressure on the tyre wall of your bike. It’s usually 70-90 pounds per square inch. psi)
Finally - do wear a decent helmet, ensure your lights work, keep spare batteries and wear something which makes you
easily seen and spottable in the dark. The numpty brigade, alas....
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